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Maybe they can make a new rule where all Masters racers MUST be in Rotax 😆 Just kidding.
Signed a lonely Rotaxer in the Springs :bang
Hahahaha!!!!!!! I believe the “territory” claiming is what led to all the rubber on it to begin with! 😯
George said it will be open, but the tracks open every day anyways. This Saturday’s supposed to be tech inspect for those racing Sunday. Give him a call at (719) 749-9840. I’m unfamiliar with TAG setup/rules, so I don’t know about gearing.
@charger wrote:
Thanks Joe, I found it. Where should I go to find out about the class, eqipment, etc? Would there be some Masters class people at the event May 4th? Would you recommend this class or the TaG masters or the Easykart shifters for someone (>50) with alot of racing experience but none in karts?
Thanks
ChrisHi Chris,
I’m one of those who’ll be running in the masters at CRE. There will be a class running this Sunday, with tech inspection Saturday in case you want to bend anyone’s ear. I’m new this year after a 4 year hiatus, but I could try to answer some of your questions. I chose Rotax because the engine is sealed making for a more even chance of competition and more importantly a less expensive option since we can’t hop up the engines. As you may have seen on CRE’s site the minimum weight is 405 lbs which makes us a tad slower than most classes. Some say CRE is one of the most technical tracks in Colorado due to all the tight turns (you can see the track aerial view on the site). Those turns, the underused, therefore cold track (during the week for practice), and my inexperience serve to make getting run times down very difficult. We get up to 60mph on the front straight, and it takes about 43 seconds to get around (which I’ve yet to master). Besides the kart, you’ll need one of those racing suits (or jacket) to protect you in case of fire and a DOT full face helmet. I’m not sure if racing gloves are required but everyone uses them. The Rotax class is running Mojo D2 tires this year (which I’ve yet to test). George (the proprietor) has everything you need out there to get going, and a wealth of knowlege. Give him a call at (719) 749-9840. Sometimes he’s hard to get a hold of since he’s usually running around, but he’ll be easy to find on the track this weekend. If you need a kart there’s usually lots of them available used on this site or craigslist (Springs or Denver) at a GREATLY reduced price from new, and George sometimes has some used ones available or he can set you up in a shiney new one.
There were 4 people who ran the first “non-Rotax Challenge” race, we’ll see if any more show up for this weekend’s first actual “Rotax Challenge” race. Either way it’s a blast.
Hope this helps some,
ScottThanks all. I was mistakenly focusing on the slot (at 12 O’clock) in Jeff’s pic, which the Arrow cassette does not have. And I was reading “roate the bearing” as somehow rotating it within the cassette to align some non-existant tabs on the bearing with the slots on the casette.
Joe’s description made me realize I have to “pivot” the bearing out of the casette, then twist it to align with the slots to aid in removing from casette. Using the axle as a tool to pivot the bearing out did the trick.
Thanks again to all of your generous help!
Hmmm, something tells me I’m in for some “brand specific” fun.
The carriers for the Arrow don’t look like the above. They look like this:
[attachment=0:2hap2q2b]Carrier.jpg[/attachment:2hap2q2b]@D fresh wrote:
The only thing that I don’t dig about it is how you store it as with my small truck I have to keep the tailgate down during transport.
It may actually clear a dropped tailgate without doing anything. But, if it doesn’t, you can just slide out the multi-holed adjustable tongue that goes into the hitch receiver.
It’s an old post, but maybe you still need something. Try this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47591
I desperately needed something to take care of my bad back/one man pit crew and this did it. The lift has a 500 lb capacity. You have to modify the deck though. I removed it and replaced it with a crudely built deck of wood and angle iron (the kind with holes in it at Home Depot/Lowes) cuz I had some laying around. Or, you could just extend the stock tubing (originally used for bolting the stock deck on) with some sort of steel and operate it like a fork lift (something I’ll probably try to craft eventually). Modifications would be MUCH more easier with a welder . ..
It wires direct to your battery so you need a 50 amp in-line fuze. I found one at a truck supply place for $35. But shopping around found one for $3.50 at a RV dealer/supply place.
This thing works great. It’s adjustable to place it at the correct height of your tailgate. And, you just flip it up verticle for the drive home.
